Wales

Spectacular Conwy Castle is one of Europe’s finest medieval castles. It forms part of the ‘iron ring of castles’ built by the English King Edward I to deter future Welsh rebellions. The castle took just four years to build, but who designed and built this medieval masterpiece?

Conwy Castle was built by the architect Master James of St. George. He was the go-to castle builder for Edward I in North Wales. James was a master mason from the Savoy region of Europe, who oversaw the completion of Conwy Castle in a blisteringly rapid four years (source).

Over 700 years later, Conwy Castle still has the power to leave you with a feeling of awe in its scale. In this article, I shall explain why Conwy Castle was built before looking at its architect, Master James of St George, and how this magnificent fortress was built.

Why Conwy Castle Was Built

In 1277, English King Edward I began his conquest of Wales in earnest.

In a series of campaigns over the next six years, Wales came under English control and English law. The last native Prince of Wales, Llywelyn ap Gruffudd was killed in December 1282 at the battle of Orwin Bridge.

Edward I achieved his aim to make the previously fiercely independent Wales a territory of England.

The last part of the conquest involved subduing rebels and uprisings in the north of the country. However, Edward knew only too well that the recently conquered Welsh would not simply lie down and accept English rule.

Therefore, Edward needed a plan, one that would help subjugate the Welsh and deter future rebellions.

Part of the solution was to embark on a castle building scheme which was to become known as the ‘iron ring of castles’.

An Iron Ring of Castles

The castle-building program began well before Wales was brought under complete control of Edward I.

The construction of Flint Castle began in 1277, soon after the English crossed into Wales. However, it took seven years to complete.

In time, 10 castles were built along the North Wales coastal region. They stretched from the border with England, across to Harlech Castle overlooking the Irish Sea in the west.

Each castle was planned to be a single day’s march from another, allowing for rapid deployment to a besieged castle.

The following table lists the ten castles that formed the iron ring.

The local population would never have seen such constructions before. This was shock and awe medieval-style.

Each castle screamed power and dominance. If you are to rebel against your new King, these are the fortifications you will have to defeat. They were designed to cow and subjugate would-be rebels.

The design of Conwy Castle upped the ante even further. The castle was originally rendered with lime, making it a gleaming white.

The power and opulence of King Edward I were being made clear. Conwy Castle stood out as a shining example of the English conquest, a building designed to make you look and take note.

The following video provides an insight into Conwy Castle.

The Man Who Built Conwy Castle

While returning from crusade, Edward I met a master mason at the court of Philip I, the Count of Savoy. It was to prove a significant historical moment.

The master mason was Master James of St George, and together they would build a series of impressive castles across Wales, including Conwy Castle.

Not huge amounts are known about Master James, including his exact date of birth. He was born around 1230 and learned his trade from his master mason father, John.

A master mason was an architect and engineer who was employed to design and oversee the building of official buildings.

Career Beginnings

James is acknowledged as working with his father on the construction of Yverdon Castle in Switzerland.

Work began in 1259 and was financed by Peter, Count of Savoy. The castle was completed in 1267.

However, by this time it was being overseen by James alone. Records on his father had ended by now.

The castle used a design where the keep was separate from the castle, with a drawbridge that could be raised. This offered refuge if the outer castle walls were penetrated by an invading force.

The work on Yverdon Castle must have impressed, as James would soon have another project lined up.

Philip succeeded Peter as Count of Savoy in 1268. Philip wanted a new castle at St. Georges d’Esperanche in modern-day France. He also wanted a grand castle, more a luxurious residence than a defensive castle. He picked Master James as the man for the job.

A Historic Encounter

Master James must have been more than satisfied with the outcome, adding the title of St George to his name. His castle designs were also starting to draw attention from further afield.

Toward the completion of the castle, the Count of Savoy was hosting an important visitor.

Edward I was introduced to Master James of St. George in 1273 by the Count of Savoy.

Edward must have been particularly impressed with the castle he saw and persuaded the count to allow Master James to travel to the UK to work for him.

It was the beginning of a working relationship that lasted for three decades, resulting in some of the most imposing and magnificent castle fortifications in Europe.

Building Conwy Castle

Master James of St. George oversaw the building or renovation of 12 castles in Wales. One of these was Conwy Castle, with work starting in 1283.

Anyone who has visited this masterpiece of medieval military construction will be amazed that such a fortress was built in just four years.

Edward I picked a site that was significant for its defensive capacities as well as its local history. Located high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the River Conwy estuary and with a stream running on one side, it was an ideal defensive site. The river could provide valuable water during any siege.

The location was also the site of Aberconwy Abbey, the most important Cistercian abbey in North Wales.

Llywelyn the Great was buried at the abbey. Edward provided funds to move the abbey to a new location in Maenan. He was the King in this neck of the woods now.

Building Starts

Conwy Castle was first and foremost a military fortification. The most important element was its security and defensive capability. With this in mind, Master James of St. George set about overseeing the construction of the outer wall and towers first.

The eight towers are the most instantly identifiable parts of Conwy Castle.

They were several stories high and up to 70 ft (21.3 m) tall. The outer walls were 15 ft (4.6 m) thick in parts.

This was a high-end castle, one fit to protect a royal inhabitant.

Much of the construction material used was sourced from local quarries, although sandstone for the windows and other finer elements was shipped in from farther afield.

The castle was also built with two fortified barbicans, each designed to be lower than the walls behind them. This allowed the castle defenders to fire arrows over the barbican.

The Royal Apartments

Once the main fortifications were in place, Master James oversaw the building of the inner and outer wards. The royal apartments were found in the inner ward, with access via a stone causeway and heavily protected.

The Great Hall was sited in the outer ward, along with a private chapel and the kitchen and stables.

Much of the design was influenced by the rocky outcrop location. This is why the castle does not have the same concentric design as other castles of the time. As previously mentioned, the castle was then rendered white for extra visual impact.

An Accompanying Town

Master James of St. George was required to provide more than just a castle. Developing the town of Conwy was equally important as it helped protect the most accessible part of the castle.

Conwy was built with fortified walls that surrounded the settlement. The town became an English colony, protected by 1.3 km of walls and 21 defensive towers. These walls were also built during the same time frame as the castle itself.

It All Sounds a Bit Pricey

Castles did not come cheap, and the design of Conwy Castle was certainly no exception to the rule.

It cost Edward I £15,000 to build Conwy Castle, around $50 million in today’s money. Construction involved around 15,000 men and is one of the most expensively built castles of its time.

Master James of St. George did well for himself out of its building too. He was paid two shillings a day for his professional services, the equivalent of the weekly wage for the average craftsman.

By 1285, he had been appointed Master of the Royal Works in Wales, a title which saw his daily rate rise to a lucrative three shillings.

It must be said that Master James of St. George was just one of many master craftsmen who would have been employed to construct the castle. For instance, Richard of Chester was another of King Edward’s favored engineers.

He oversaw the initial preparation of the site, as well as some of the masonry and stone work.

750 Years Later

Conwy Castle still dominates the landscape just as it did when first built in the 13th century. The walls may be gray now, but it still retains the power to impress its many visitors.

However, if you look hard enough, you will still find evidence of the old lime rendering which gave the castle walls their original color.

Conwy Castle was made a Unesco World Heritage site in 1986. It is a jewel in the Welsh tourism crown, one which can see up to 200,000 visitors flock to the site every year.

This is because it is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the UK. It also contains the most complete royal apartments to wander around of any of the great Welsh castles.

A good deal of credit for how you find the castle today goes to conservationists and historians. The impressive walls and inner wards created by Master James of St. George fell into a state of disrepair following the civil war in the 17^th century.

Appreciation of the castle’s importance has seen it restored to the point where visitors can once again enjoy the sheer scale of Master James’ design.

What Happened to Master James of St. George?

Master James of St. George was one of the most important medieval castle builders. The castles he built were witness to significant moments in history and stand today as stark reminders of more turbulent times in British history.

His association with Edward I lasted for 30 years.

He was rewarded for his work with a manor in North-East Wales, granted by his employer, the English king. Further castles he oversaw building include Rhuddlan, Caernarfon, and Beaumaris.

Master James was a frugal craftsman who liked to get value and kept tight accounts of the work he oversaw. This may have been another reason why Edward I appreciated his craftsmanship.

Edward was never the frugal type. His wars alone placed huge financial demands on his people. Parliament assented to ‘extraordinary taxes’ to pay for them (source). A money-counting master mason may have been just what he was looking for.

Beaumaris was the last Welsh Castle begun under the watchful eye of Master James.

When Edward I turned his attention north of the border, he sent for his master mason. Master James of St. George worked on projects in Scotland including the strengthening of the defenses at Linlithgow. However, his legacy in the UK remains the imposing castles he helped build in Wales.

Master James of St. George died around 1308, his reputation as a master castle builder intact.

He was married to Ambrosia, who left the court of Savoy to travel with him to his new country of employment. A lack of records regarding a pension for Ambrosia suggests that she died before him.

Wales has more castles for every square mile than any other European country. The Normans and the English built castles to project their power and to create a base from where they could mount their bids to conquer Wales. Wales is a castle lover’s paradise, but which castle is the biggest?

Caerphilly Castle is the biggest castle in Wales (source). It is also the second largest castle in Britain, behind only Windsor. This formidable fortress covers 30 acres and is surrounded by water. Overlooking the South Wales town of Caerphilly, the castle has a wonderfully domineering presence.

There are over 600 castles dotted around Wales. Varying in style and structure, Caerphilly wins the bragging rights for the largest. In this article, I shall look at:

• The main features of Caerphilly Castle
• Why Caerphilly Castle was built
• The history of Caerphilly Castle
• What the modern-day visitor can expect

How Big Is Caerphilly Castle?

Big, is the simple answer. This majestic castle occupies 30 acres of land or 120,000 square meters.

Work began on Caerphilly Castle in 1268, with extensions added during the following years.

At the time it was built, Caerphilly was at the forefront of castle design. Caerphilly Castle was constructed using Pennant sandstone. It was one of the first castles in Britain built with a concentric design, with two inner and two outer wards. The curtain walls meant attacking armies had further obstacles to overcome if they penetrated the outer wall.

The inner wall was also higher than the outer wall. This allowed archers to shoot over the heads of their fellow defenders at any attacking force, In places, the walls were over a foot thick.

The castle consisted of eight towers of various sizes, two gatehouses, and a single drawbridge.

This castle needed to withstand an attack and a siege. It also needed to be a base from where power could be disseminated and the administrative function of the local area carried out. However, access to the castle needed to be withdrawn swiftly and efficiently when required.

This is where another defensive feature sets Caerphilly Castle apart from other castles of the time. The outer walls of the castle were surrounded by a moat, while the inner walls sat on an island surrounded by lakes. These water features had to be negotiated first before any attempt could be made on the inner castle walls by an aggressor.

Caerphilly was one of the first castles designed with such defensive water features. Further bonuses of the water defenses were in protecting the castle defenders from tunneling and the use of siege engines.

The Normans in Wales

After the Norman conquest of England in 1066, their attention turned to Wales. With them came a surge of castle building. Early castles were motte and bailey affairs, involving a wooden tower built high up on a mound of earth.

By the thirteenth century, stone fortifications had made castles far more imposing structures. Much of Wales was by now under Anglo-Norman control, although most of the barons were of Norman descent. However, a local rebellion was never far away.

Back in England, King Henry III was at loggerheads with his barons. This took up his full attention, presenting an opportunity to Welsh leaders to try and wrestle back control of Wales.

One of these leaders was Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. He proclaimed himself Prince of Wales and allied himself with the English king’s baronial opposition. He wanted to expand his power base in Glamorgan. This pitted him against the Anglo-Norman Earls of Gloucester who had similar ambitions for this part of Wales.

Gilbert de Clare

By 1268, Gilbert de Clare was the seventh Earl of Gloucester. He also held the title of Lord of Glamorgan and was one of the most powerful of the Welsh Marcher lords. Gilbert de Clare was increasingly concerned about the threat from Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. He decided he needed a castle to help defend the lands he had won.

He not only wanted a castle, but he also wanted it built in rapid time.

Work on Caerphilly Castle began in 1268 at the site of an old Roman fort. The cost of the building work must have been astronomical. Huge defensive walls and imposing towers were constructed over the next three years, although not without some interference from de Clare’s arch-nemesis.

Llywelyn ap Gruffydd orchestrated raids on the castle. One of these in 1270 saw the raiders burn some of the unfinished buildings as well as stored materials. However, de Clare was not to be put off his dream castle. Work resumed in 1271 and soon the perimeter walls, curtain walls, towers, and the Great Hall were complete. Caerphilly Castle was taking on its imposing form.

History of Caerphilly Castle

Llywelyn ap Gruffydd was killed in battle in 1282. His decapitated head was sent back to London and displayed on the gatehouse at the Tower of London. However, Gilbert de Clare could not rest easy following the demise of the Prince of Wales.

The second phase of building was completed around 1290. Four years later, a Welsh rebellion by Madog ap Llywelyn saw Caerphilly Castle under threat. The castle’s fortifications proved their worth, and the castle held firm. Unfortunately, the same could not be said for the town, which was burned.

In 1295 Gilbert de Clare died. Caerphilly Castle stood as his impregnable castle.

However, as Edward I advanced north through Wales, Caerphilly became further from the front line of the hostilities. The need for Caerphilly Castle as a fortress receded, and its future occupiers saw its potential as a palatial home instead.

Refuge to Edward II

Caerphilly has been the residence of famous historical names across the centuries.

In 1306, Hugh Despenser, a favorite of King Edward II, married Eleanor de Clare. His wife was the daughter of Gilbert de Clare, and she inherited Caerphilly Castle in 1317.

Hugh Despenser set about turning the castle into a palatial palace befitting his perceived status. This included the enlargement and ornate refurbishment of the Great Hall. The hall was now a suitable centerpiece for such a noble family, one where great feasts could be held.

While Hugh Despenser was a favorite with the King, who bestowed him with titles, he was less than popular with the Queen and much of the court nobility.

When Queen Isabella joined forces with Roger Mortimer in 1326 to rid the King of the influence of the Despensers, support for Edward soon disappeared. The King fled to Wales to join Hugh Despenser at Caerphilly Castle.

The pair eventually fled the castle before being captured by the Queen’s forces. The King was deposed and replaced by his son, Edward III. The king’s favorite, Hugh Despenser, was executed by hanging, drawing, and quartering.

Caerphilly Castle was besieged, with the siege ending in March 1327 after an agreement was struck with the remaining defenders.

Left to Fall into Disrepair

Following the saga with King Edward II and Hugh Despenser, Caerphilly Castle once again became a palatial home for nobility. The castle became a residence of the Earls of Warwick through marriage. Money was once again poured into the castle to make it the primary residence in the area.

Another famous name from history to take control of Caerphilly Castle was Jasper Tudor, Earl of Pembroke. Jasper Tudor was a loyal guardian of his nephew, the future King Henry VII. His loyalty was rewarded with the Lordship of Glamorgan. He was also made constable of several castles in Wales, with Caerphilly passing to him in 1486.

However, it was around this time that the importance of Caerphilly Castle began to wane, and it started to fall into disrepair. By the start of the 16^th century, the neglected castle was more a ruin than a stronghold. The defensive lake system was now just a swamp. Stone from the walls was stolen, and by the 18^th century, the great towers were in a state of collapse.

The following table offers a timeline showing the castle’s principal custodians and events in Medieval times.

A Time for Restoration

The first stage of restoring this magnificent structure came at the latter end of the 18^th century. The Marquis of Bute, John Stuart, took possession of Caerphilly Castle in 1776. You can only imagine his thoughts as he surveyed the walls of a castle so long in decline.

The castle renovation became a family labor of love. This was no quick fix, but a long-term project. John Crichton-Stuart, his great-grandson, brought the Great Hall back to life toward the end of the 19^th century. The next generations continued the good work, carrying out extensive renovations.

Towers were rebuilt and the lakes re-flooded. Caerphilly Castle was gradually resembling its former glorious self. Further restoration work begun in 1928 was bold and against the thinking of the day. The general mood of the time was conservation, not reconstruction.

In 1950, after generations of hard work and expense, the Stuart family donated the keys to Caerphilly Castle to the state. It is now managed by the Welsh heritage agency, Cadw.

Visiting Caerphilly Castle Today

Today, visitors to Caerphilly Castle can explore the 30 acres of grounds, walk around the lake that once formed its defensive feature, and enjoy the views of the surrounding countryside. Castles like Caerphilly, even with structures still in partial ruin, retain an atmospheric pull.

The castle is accessed over the drawbridge. From here you can explore the grounds and the surviving towers. If you climb the Gatehouse Tower, you are rewarded with stunning views over the castle grounds.

The Great Hall is a highlight of the castle and still functions today, holding Medieval banquets. There is plenty of information to learn about the castle and its history as you go around, including exhibitions. Displays include siege weapons, while the staterooms also offer a glimpse back into the past.

A quirky feature of the modern Caerphilly Castle which draws people to the site is its leaning tower. The southeast tower is said to lean by 10 degrees, making it one of the most lop-sided structures in the world.

There is a degree of uncertainty about how the tower became so wonky. Local folklore says it was caused by gunpowder during the English Civil War. However, it is possible that stones taken from the tower by locals for other use while the castle was neglected could be the reason.

The following video guides you around the modern-day Caerphilly Castle.

Visitors can expect an even more enhanced experience soon. In 2021, an investment of £5 million was announced by Cadw, aimed at turning Caerphilly Castle into a major tourist attraction (source). The improved customer experience will feature improvements within the Great Hall to help return it to its medieval splendor. Conservation, improved accessibility, and facilities, plus a new visitor center are also key elements of the investment.

You May Have Already Visited Virtually

You may have viewed the grounds of Caerphilly Castle without realizing it. The castle has been the location for several TV shows and films.

Caerphilly Castle was chosen to film scenes for an episode of Doctor Who, Robot of Sherwood, when Peter Capaldi was in the titular role. This was not the first time the castle had featured in Doctor Who, having been used a couple of times in earlier series.

The acclaimed drama Wolf Hall, based on the Hilary Mantel novel, also shot scenes at Caerphilly Castle, as did the popular fantasy show Merlin, which ran for five seasons.

Further filming to take place at Caerphilly Castle includes Restoration, Gawain, and the Green Knight, Sword of the Valiant, and Galavant. Therefore, Caerphilly Castle is a location sought out by film and TV fans wanting a glimpse of where their favorite shows and films were made. It was noted how visitor numbers went up after Merlin was aired featuring Caerphilly Castle.