Calakmul

By virtue of the size of its main structures and its extent, this town is comparable with other, better-known sites of the Mayan culture, such as Palenque, Uxmal and Chichen Itza in Mexico and Tikal or Copán in Central America. However, it contains structures that are older than those to be found in these sites. In Calakmul the layout of certain groups of buildings and the general organization of the urban centre present characteristics that also apply to the other sites in the Petén region such as Uaxactún and Tikal.

Calakmul is especially noteworthy for the large number (120 to date) of stelae that have been found on the site. Not only are these of immense importance in establishing the history of the ancient city and in throwing light on the ancient Maya culture, they are also key elements in its layout. The structure-open space’ element is common to all Maya sites, but at Calakmul this is further enriched with stelae carefully sited in regular lines or groups in front of the stairways and main facades of the pyramidal structures. The decorative sculpture and reliefs are artistically of a high order. Two exceptional massive circular carved stones are especially noteworthy for their quality and rarity in the Mayan context.

It was not until 1931 that the existence of the site was recorded by Cyrus L Lundell during a botanical expedition. It was he who gave it its present name, made up of ca (two), lak (near), and mul (mountain = pyramid) – ie “two neighbouring pyramids.”

Having visited many of the archaelogical sites in the Yucatan, it was time to discover those in the south of the state of Campeche. Calakmul offers a true jungle experience. No manicured areas like at Chichen Itza or Kohunlich; Calakmul, in the depths of the rainforest, remains a hidden gem.

Reaching the site is an adventure in itself. In the past, it took days to machete a path to reach the site. Now there is a narrow, windy road that may have obstructions like fallen trees across the way. Although only 60 km from the road, it will take over an hour to reach the site itself. Be sure to get an early start to have a full day at the site.

Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

Calakmul is part of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, the largest in Mexico and also a World Heritage site. On the drive into the archaeaological site, keep you eyes peeled to see some of the wildlife. There are over 250 species of birds, five of the six species of felines found in Mexico,ocellated turkeys, peccary, monkeys and other animals that call Calakmul home.

Tallest in the Yucatan

Calakmul compares in importance with better-known sites like Palenque, Copan, Tikal, Uxmal and Chichen Itza. Its architectural elements are similar to Peten sites; its grandeur is comparable to none. Stelae abound throughout the site, and a significant number of murals has also been found at the site. Unfortunately, we did not have access to them at the time of our visit. Following the posted route, it’s a long walk to the highest of the pyramids, but the other structures on the way are worth investigating. If time is short, do the designated route in a reverse direction to quickly access the plaza with the tallest pyramids.

Climbing High

Another reason to start the exploration of Calakmul from the designated finish is that you have not exerted any energy or suffered the heat of the jungle as you would starting in the marked direction. Many of the pyramids of the Yucatan are closed to climbing, but it’s still possible to climb the tallest pyramids in Calakmul and from the tops your view might stretch all the way to El Mirador in Guatemala.

Getting there: A rental car is highly recommended as Calakmul is situated far from the highway. Although possible to hire a taxi, why not simply rent a car in Cancun or another convenient port and explore the many archaeaological sites in the southern part of the Yucatan?

A Castle by Any Other Name

So many of the sites in Mexico have their main structures known as El Castillo. We are taking some artistic license by calling this amazing structures castles. The main structure

at Calakmul is referred to simply as Structure II

Fees

There is a fee for road maintenance and entrance into the site itself. The first fee will be collected at the gate when you first enter the access road.

Tips

  • Take plenty of water, sunscreen and anything else that you might need for the day.
  • Get on the road early as it will take the entire day to see the site.
  • Explore the site in the reverse order. Most people reach the tallest pyramid in the afternoon. If you did it in reverse order you would have the place to yourself. As it is, so few people explore this site that you won’t find more than a handful of people here.
  • Check out some of the other sites along the way: Kohunlich, Becan, Xpuhil, Rio Bec. Some of the sites are accessible only by a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

Pet Peeve: Maya is the word used for the people, culture and anything but the language. Mayan is the language spoken by the Maya. Watch how you use the word.